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Thanks
Tammie for testing and sending the photos. You did such
a great job with the Instructions I decided to add them
below for all to read and learn.


Free
Standing Lace (FSL) Bowls & Baskets
These
instructions may seem long but they are full of tips for making these and any
other FSL items.
First
and foremost... HAVE FUN!!!
These
wonderful little bowls and baskets...just add handle to make it a basket... are
only limited by your imagination.
Colors in the designs are only a suggestion and to show where color
breaks are. You can create an entirely
different look by changing one color or not changing at all and make a solid
"color on color" design. The
best part is, these are simple to stitch and sew!
Preparation:
Choose
your colors... have fun combining some of those colors you have in your stash.
Use the
same 40 wt embroidery thread for both the top and bobbin threads. Both sides of
the item will be visible when finished.
Designs will usually require less than 2 bobbins of the main color
depending on the type of machine and bobbins you use.
Prepare
at least one bobbin full for each color you will use in the design.
Hoop 1
or 2 layers of your WSS (water soluable stabilizer) making sure it is firmly in
the hoop and will not shift or give. (I
use Vilene and am able to pull it tightly in the hoop). You may want to tighten your hoop screw to
hold the WSS securely after pulling around the edges.
Start
stitching!
When
you reach a color stop, change both your top thread and bobbin threads to
match. Do not remove the stabilizer
from the hoop…just remove the hoop from the machine and slide it out of the way
to reach the bobbin.
When
stitching is complete remove from the hoop and trim excess WSS from around
design. You do not need to trim super
close...remember, when you wet it, all will dissolve away and when sewing
together you stitch right through it.
There
are different theories as to the order of the following steps. Try it both ways and see what works best for
you
1. Theory
Rinse
stabilizer from design using warm water.
I
prefer to rinse lightly so the final item is relatively stiff. This helps it hold its shape. The easiest way I have found to rinse
designs without distorting the shape is place it flat between two pieces of
needlepoint plastic sheets and run the water through it. This method rinses the stabilizer out
quickly. I use the hand sprayer at the
kitchen sink. You can lay the canvas in
the sink and spray away.
Another
way to rinse is place the item in a bowl of warm to hot water and allow to
soak. This method may require draining
the water and rinsing again if you prefer a softer final item.
No
mater how you choose to rinse your FSL design, remember, the more water you
use, the softer the final item will be.
Lay
rinsed item flat on an absorbant towel and blot with another towel to remove
excess water. If you used plastic
canvas to rinse, just gently slide item off canvas to maintain shape. Gently reshape any areas necessary while
wet. Allow to lay flat to dry ... do
not be tempted to pick it up and "check it out" until it begins to
get a little stiff. You may use a hair
dryer on a medium speed to quicken the drying.
When it begins to stiffen a little, gently turn over and allow to dry on
the other side. do not be alarmed if it tries to stick to the towel...just
gently pull it up. Once it is dry you
will be pleasantly surprised how strong it is.
Do not be alarmed if there are a few loose threads sticking out
somewhere. Once the item is completely
dry you may trim these away without damaging the item. Do not trim until COMPLETLY dry
Once
dry, it is time to sew it together. The
dry and stiff item will be easy to handle under the sewing machine... you can
bend and force edges together if necessary without damaging the final shape.
Again, use the same thread in your bobbin as the top thread...use the color of
the final outline of the item
Try
different ways and machine settings until you find what works best for
you. Set your machine to a zig zag
stitch (for the small baskets & bowls I use a 4 mm width) and the stitch
length at slightly longer than would produce a satin stitch. Place the bowl under the presser foot with
the center/base behind the foot about 2/3 toward the end. You will stitch the top 1/3 first while
pushing the sides together...don't worry, it does not have to be perfect! These things are very forgiving of
mistakes...just sew over them again. The stiffness of the dried item will make it easier to push the
sides together under the foot. Again,
don't worry about bending or causing it to be out of shape...these things are
more tolerant than you would think and if it does get out of shape, that is
easy to fix too!
Sew to
the top edge...stop..leave the item in place, and with the needle in the up
position, lift the presser foot, gently turn the item around with the base now
near you and lower the presser foot back over the top edge where you have already
sewn. If you are gentle in turning,
there will be little or no extra thread pulled from the bobbin. Think of the
turning as "spinning" the item with the top and bobbin threads as the
center. Now, just sew to the bottom of the sides. Be sure to do a little reverse stitch as in any sewing to secure
your stitches when you finish.
You
have finished one side.. just repeat the process until you have completed all
sides. Do not be discouraged if it does
not "look right" the first time.
If any spots were missed and did not join, just stitch over them again
while pushing the sides together. This
is not rocket science. The more you do,
the better and quicker it will become.
Your personal technique will develop very quickly and it will not be
long, you will be giving others advice on how to do this
If the
item is to have a handle on it, now is the time to attach it. You may use a little zigzag stitch to
attach..place the ends inside the bowl and line up with a seam and stitch
away...you should be getting better at it by now. Another way to attach the handle is to use a hot glue gun ... I
call this "the easy way out"
If the
final product needs a little reshaping, just spritz with a tiny bit of water
and shape with you fingers then allow to COMPLETELY dry.
2.
Theory
Leave
stabilizer in and sew the sides together before rinsing. Again, use a zigzag stitch to join all
sides. The item is flexible and soft so
you may stitch however works best for you.
I suggest you stitch the top 1/3 first to make sure the top edges are
matching up properly and turn to stitch down to the base. After stitching the sides together, it is
time to rinse in warm to hot water to remove the stabilizer. Remove from water... (when I do it this way
I set the bowl on my plastic canvas in the sink and gently use the sprayer to
rinse the stabilizer out.) When
finished rinsing, shape the bowl and allow to completely dry before adding the
handle.
Try
both methods and see what works best for you.
Just have fun. It is only thread
and if you really make a mess of it, try again. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the results no
matter how badly you think you are doing
If your
final item is stiffer than you like, just rinse it some more and reshape ...
allow to dry
Then
again, if it is too soft and will not hold its shape, take some of your WSS
scraps and place in a bowl of water and rinse the item in it...reshape and
allow to dry. The more WSS in the
water, the stiffer it will be when dry
I know
these instructions have been long but I hope you feel a little more confident
in doing your first FSL project or for those of you who are not new to FSL…
maybe you learned a new trick or two.
A final
word of encouragement from a fellow embroider:
We all
break needles, have thread nests and generally can’t get anything to go
right. When it seems hopeless,
remember, you have us to ask for help…
Your embroidery friends and digitizers are here for you. Hopefully, you will never experience the
despair I felt when, in the beginning, I had no one to ask and literally sat in
the middle of the floor and cried because I had spent all this money and “IT
WON’T WORK!!!!!” Never fear, we are
here
Happy
Embroidering and Crafting.

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